This section should provide you with an brief review of fundamentals of coastal engineering, regarding hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes.
The following slides review processes of long-term changes of water levels, components contributing to a measured water level.
Sea state is the superposition of wind waves and swell waves of different wave heights, wave periods, or wave frequencies and directions. While travelling towards a coast line, sea state resp. waves experience a transformationen due to the limited water depth near the coast line. Additionally, wave will be transformed by the interaction with structure near or at the coast. Basics of sea state, the wave transformation of wave in shallow water and due to structure interaction are presented.
Coastal Currents are the driver for sediement transport along the coast, in long-shore direction and cross-shore direction as well. Here basics of coastal currents as a hydrodynamic process are shown.
Water levels, sea state and curents do not only have an influence on the nearshore coastal zone itself but also on structures present nearshore. Two import effects are dicussed in the following slides.
A bit further up, we discused the basics of coastal currents. Now, here their influences on long-shore and cross-shore sediment transport is presented.